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Big Wave Surfers and Their Fans
Itfs
as if King Neptune and his son Triton conspired to bring
seasons greetings in the form of the biggest waves anyone
has seen in recent years. There are others who attribute
this onslaught of massive breakers to global warming
and El Nino. The waves of life are upon us.
El
Nino years 82-83, 97-98 are recorded in the annuals
of surfing history as the biggest most consistent waves
successfully ever surfed in the entire west Pacific,
maybe the world.Now
the winter waves of e02-e03 are well on the way to
becoming the third jewel in the triple crown of high
surf El Nino years.
Infamous big wave spots like gJawsh on Maui, Half
Moon Bayfs gMavericksh and Todos Santosf gKillersh
as well as certain spots in San Diego have all been
actively producing huge waves for an old and new generation
of big wave super stars. Willing to take a chance, surfing
wave gliders dance on the sparkle walls of fate and
destiny. Unknown surfers, consummate pros. seasoned
big wave veterans and impressively large waves combine
to draw hundreds of thousands of onlookers.
Anxious to see the daring men and women on highflying
surfboards soaring harmoniously on cascading mountains
of water, many view this amazing athletic feat of bravado
and prowess from the safety of their living rooms. A
visceral experience through the television that is rated
XXX for extreme. Next to actually surfing big waves
nothing compares or comes close to the excitement and
thrill of watching big wave surfing in person.
Viewing high surf in person can be life
threatening and possibly just as dangerous as being
out with the surfers.
Be informed! Understanding and information can saves
lives! Trust yourself and your intuition! And share
the information even if it is with someone who appears
to already know. Many donft. You may save a life and
not ever know it. Thatfs aloha.
Here are a few big wave tips to help big wave surfers
and surf watching fans lucky enough to be near the action
be safer:
? Obey all signs and warnings. They are there to protect
you and are there for good reasons.
? The higher the elevation the easier it is to see what
is going on. In other words he who is the highest sees
the furthest. Many times the best place to view is from
on top of the coastal bluffs. Bluffs are susceptible
to caving in unexpectedly, especially after a rain.
Donft assume because other people are doing it that
it is okay to stand near the edge. No one likes it under
tons of coastal bluff. Anything can happen, just ask
the lifeguards.
? Stay well away from the tide and incoming waves. Often
the ocean will recede out as much as a couple hundred
yards or more before steam rolling back in. Massive
amounts of powerful swift flowing water surges in and
then travels back out to sea, with enormous force that
can pull grown men off the beach, up root trees and
take out or damage coastal structures i.e. beach access
stairways, sea walls and buildings like the one occupied
by Chart House in Cardiff. Enjoy it while it lasts.
? Never turn your back on the ocean under any conditions,
waves big or small. While the ocean may appear calm
it is unpredictable. Sometimes two or more waves will
join up way out to sea, creating a super wave surfers
refer to as a rogue. Donft be lulled into a false sense
of security and caught off guard by a sleeper set. Many
who have turned their back on the ocean regrettably
have gotten swept out to sea by surprise.
? Unless you are trained and experienced in high surf
and or ocean rescues never enter the water in high surf.
If you see someone in trouble yell for help and call
911. Many times good Samaritans will see some one in
trouble and attempt to rescue them, only to be rescued
themselves creating a more dangerous situation for all.
If you donft have the experience donft make things more
difficult.
? If youfre planning on surfing the high waves practice
the buddy system. Always surf with a friend and keep
an eye on each other as well as everyone else in the
line up. If surfing alone always tell someone where
youfre going and when you expect to be back. The reason
is if something does go wrong someone will know and
alert a search party to look for you. One surfer a few
years back after losing his surfboard was rescued at
Waimea Bay in Hawaii during high surf. His girl friend
alerted a search party when he didnft come home for
dinner. Thanks to her concern and action she was able
to instigate a coast guard search team. The surfer was
rescued by helicopter after treading water for hours
in 39-foot seas sometime around midnight. Thank you
Coast Guard!
? Be vigilant. In front of surfing photographers, other
surfers and on lookerfs Hawaiian surfing legend Mark
Foo disappeared at Mavericks without notice. It was
a half hour before anyone even realized he was missing.
A half hour that possibly could have made all the difference
in the world for Mark.
? Be aware. Waves never appear as large from the shoreline
as they are when you get out there. When waves get big
they sometimes take on a slow motion look. While they
might look like slow rollers from the shore the truth
is they are moving quite fast and contain a tremendous
amount of force. Never underestimate the size of the
waves or their power.
? Make sure you have the right equipment. If you want
to ride a big wave, you better have a big board if you
plan on paddling in. This will make catching waves easier
and help in getting out of harms way when caught inside.
If you wear a leash make sure it is built to handle
the stress of big waves. Be prepared to swim if your
leash breaks. Have a back up plan.
? Chose the spot you surf wisely. Are there any lifeguards
present? Is there a safe channel? Make sure the surf
break can hold the size. Consider the waves quality
and shape. Have a good entry plan as well as exit strategy
before ever entering the water. This is sound advice
for anyone even contemplating going out.
? Above all learn to trust yourself and your intuition.
Listen closely to the voice inside you. If you really
donft feel confident, for any reason donft be co-horsed
into going into the surf or any situation your not comfortable
with. Before you commit-------- to anything, make sure
it feels right. There will always be another day. Trust
yourself.
Credit Neptune and Triton or El Nino for the extra high
surf it doesnft matter, the winter waves of f02-03 will
long be remembered by big wave riders and high surf
watching fans. Whether surfing the rare and prized left-handers
of La Jolla Cove, the well-sculpted rights of Swamifs
in Encinitas or the waves of life for that matter, gain
inner confidence you never knew you had through understanding,
trust and intuition, enabling you to stack the odds
in your favor. Sea you in the surf.
The Willis Bros. are surfing experts
recognized for surfing the worlds largest waves and
teaching thousands in Hawaii and California to surf.
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